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Several directions in the Lonely Planet English book (second edition, July 2001) need to be updated. See Art Simon's excellent site for updates from the first edition. On the whole, the trail is well marked with some parts having just received dabs of fresh orange. In general, we found the book to be overly cautious at times, and other times there is no mention of directions when it is not obvious. Also there are a few erroneous markers on the trail which I will point out here. Sorry for not taking pictures of the changes in the trail -- I never seemed to think of the camera when I was befuddled with finding the correct path; but feel welcome to check out the pictures I did take on the trail. The most critical change starts at the beginning of the hike. There is no longer a PNRC sign at the start of the trail. But more importantly, there is now an alternate route around the maquis as is plotted in a more recent (2004) French map of the trail. Make sure to buy a recent map! ![]() In the Lonely Planet guide, it says, "After 20 minutes, it reaches the River Fiumorbu and follows the course of the water for about 100m along first a narrow ledge, then a wider track." When you reach this point, you are doomed to the Maquis. The farmer has erected a fence effectively to keep out hikers. The new route is back on the tarmac. It is a left hand turn as you approach the trail which starts at the end of the tarmac and leads to the river (or a right hand turn as you return from this older route). The new directions should refer the hikers to this French map's alternate route: On the tarmac is an arrow pointing down the dirt road straight ahead. Ignore this; this is the old path no longer used. At this point, the road on your left is the new path and it is well marked. Another mark in error is on the outskirts of Serra-di-Fiumorbu, at the start of the second stage of the Mare a Mare Centre. As you walk the road, there is a cement wall on the left side with an orange arrow directing you to turn left on a path. This is wrong. Continue straight ahead toward the ridge in front of you. When this dirt road forks and goes off to the right, look for a foot path marked with cairns going up the ridge (between the two dirt roads). On stage three, after the descent from Col de Laparo, there is a new forest road, which the book mentions: "Half an hour later the trail joins a newly built forest road, which it follows for about 300m before turning off left on the bend and following the course of a dry river bed." This is outdated and misinformation. The path is on the right. Also, it's more than 300m, closer to 750m. On parts of the forest road you can look off, down to the right side and see markings from the old trail, now overgrown with maquis. Ignore these and keep to the road until the right hand turnoff. Stage five has an erroneous marking on a tree at the large clearing on the way to Frasetto. When you get to the large sandy clearing, there is a pig shelter on the right side
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cairn in shadow in foreground In front of it is a cairn, which in the surroundings looks like a pile of junk. Head towards the right side, aside of the fence around the pig barn. You'll see trail markings ahead. (If you go to the left and walk about 50m [view], the erroneous trail mark is on a tree [on third tree from the left in the shadows]). The signs referred to in stage seven have been replaced or removed (the Bisinao sign now says to turn after 500m). After you pass the first of the electricity pylons, you descend to an intersection. Continue uphill towards the next electricity pylon. Good hiking! |
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